A visit to our conservation project site... finally!
In April this year I was finally able to get back to my favourite continent after what seemed like an eternity. Here in Australia, we really locked down. And I mean really. International borders firmly closed at the start of 2020 and did not open up again until mid last year (and even then, only to some countries and with minimal flight options)… so this year was my year.
I started working on our long-term leopard rehabituation project with our wonderful partners, The Kariega Foundation in South Africa, in late 2019, and had a ticket booked to go and visit the project site (Kariega Game Reserve) in April 2020. Sadly, that trip had to be postponed - for three years! But nevertheless, the time came and I was so excited and full of emotion to to visit this year. We had kept working on this project remotely the whole time, and actually made some great progress and had already begun releasing “problem leopards” that needed to be relocated onto the reserve during this period (and of course continue to). See updates here and here for more detail.
It was extremely special for me to finally meet the team in person, especially Lindy - one of the owners of the reserve, Chris - the ecologist, and Brendon - senior guide and photographer who contributes to our fundraising calendar each year. I was able to spend some time with the team, visit the leopard holding enclosure (boma) that we fully funded, enjoy some safari time, and also be present for the release of the first two cheetahs onto the reserve. What a special experience that was. We are also the official donors of the cheetah conservation project as well, so it was so wonderful to have timed our visit right for their release.
I knew the likelihood of seeing a leopard on Kariega Game Reserve would be very slim. Even though there are leopards there, to try and explain the size of Kariega is impossible. Plus, the leopards that are present in the area, and the ones we have released, are not yet habituated to humans or used to safari vehicles. So we could have driven right past one without even knowing - they are the kings and queens of elusivity. So knowing this, but also wanting to keep the tradition of seeing a leopard every time I’ve gone to Africa (and also, because leopards!! Enough said. They are just so beautiful and perfect), I asked Lindy if any neighbouring reserves were known for good leopard sightings. After her recommendation, we chose to spend a couple of nights at the beautiful Kwandwe.
Now, while leopard sightings are common at Kwandwe, they are still of course rare. Leopards are always hard to find. Our first game drive at Kwandwe proved to be extremely lucky - we saw lions, a cheetah and her two adorable 8 month old cubs, AND a caracal on a kill believe it or not (plus a second caracal the next night but that’s a whole other story). How could I not already be so happy with that cat-filled game drive?! We still made it our mission the next morning though, to look for leopard. Our ranger warned us it would be hard. That it might not happen… It didn’t take us too long to find his tracks though. ‘Don’t get too excited’ I told myself. ‘He could be anywhere’, our ranger told us. But then, just a few minutes later, as we rounded a bend in the road, we saw him. It actually wasn’t that hard. It was almost like he knew, sitting there, out in the open on the side of the road, waiting for us. Waiting for me. I cried. And people who know me will tell you that’s not common for me. But those tears just came out after waiting for so long, and going through some personal hardships during those three years of waiting, and still working and striving to do everything we can for these great cats. So yes, there were tears. What an absolute picture of perfection he was.
Our three weeks in South Africa proved to be nothing short of amazing. We even fit in some surf time for the boyfie at close-by world renowned surf spot, Jeffrey’s Bay. A trip well spent I can assure you. And as usual, I can’t wait to go back!
A huge thank you to Kariega Game Reserve and the conservation team for not only having us, but treating us like family. Also to Kwandwe for welcoming us to their stunning reserve (and the most beautiful accommodation I have ever stayed in in my entire life!).
Full disclosure: our stay at Kariega Game Reserve was fully complimentary and we stayed at two of their beautiful all inclusive lodges: Main Lodge and Ukhozi Lodge. Our stay at Kwandwe’s Great Fish River Lodge was heavily discounted. Huge thanks to both our partners at Kariega and new friends at Kwandwe for this. Special mention to Onwuad for taking care of my feet with the all time best safari sandals ever (okay they’re not just made for safari - but they’re ultra cool and comfy and have an elevated sole which is PERFECT for safari). You can see them pictured on my feet in two of the photos above, and here on their website. Also gifted. All views in this blogpost are my own.